Conolly's Guide to Southern Africa [antikvár]

CHAPTER 1 Cape Town, the Cape Peninsula and the Cape Flats Civilisation started in southern Africa with the landing of Jan van Riebeeck at Table Bay on 6 April 1652 and from here, in the shadow of stately Table Mountain, where the disa, the protea, the silvertree and carpets of wild flowers flourish, a proud land is announced. Cape Town, an historic old city of narrow streets and cobble-stone squares unperturbed by its modem adjuncts of high-rise structures and subterranean accesses, is positioned in one of the most beautiful environments of any city on earth; the great backdrop of Table Mountain, flanked by Devil's Peak and Lion's Head, creating a natural sanctuary and forming a dramatic landmark. Rising directly from Table Bay in a sheer precipice of over a thousand metres, the mountainous table-top-front cuts the skyline for three kilometres. Cape Town has been the seat of government since the earliest times, and with its Houses of Parliament remains the legislative capital of South Africa. Bordering on Cape Town and within the confines of the narrow Cape Peninsula a number of separate townships have developed over the years. Many of these have united with the mother city; most of the remainder are socially and economically suburbs of Cape Town. The population of the city is 800 000, and of the peninsula, over a million. Table Mountain Table Mountain, visible from as far out at sea as 200 kilometres, has always made the anchorage of Table Bay easy to find. This is the beacon of shelter and refreshment — the famed Tavern of the Seas. Land-loving visitors to Cape Town find their bearings by taking a trip to the summit of the mountain; the cable-car journey takes ten minutes and it soon becomes obvious that Cape Town lies on a peninsula; the sea is visible on both sides. Table Bay, the reclaimed foreshore, its high-rise structures joining with those of the old city centre, other prominent landmarks — the Grand Parade, the Station, the Castle, the residences of the central suburbs spreading up the mountain slope — are all discernible from points near the upper cable station. From the western edge of the plateau the rugged Atlantic coastline is in view over Lion's Head and the Twelve Apostles; stretching from Green Point south as far as Hout Bay, the panorama takes in the charming marine suburbs of Sea Point, Clifton and Camps Bay — all built on the narrow strip between mountain and sea. The Cape Flats must be viewed from the eastern edge of the mountain plateau. From here the impressive northern urban areas spread out for 16 kilometres to BellviHe and the Tygerberg; to the right is D.F. Malan International Airport, and beyond, 50 kilometres away, the high range of Hottentots-Holland, separates the original settlement from the Overberg. At right angles from the line of the northern suburbs, starting at the end of Devil's Peak, the southern suburbs cross the plain in a straight line to Muizenberg. Eastwards from here the False Bay resorts, St James, Kalk Bay and Fish Hoek, hug the coastline to Simonstown. To the west of the southern suburbs and in the curve of the mountain are the famous Constantia and Tokai Valleys. Table Mountain Aerial Cableway consists of lower and upper stations and two single-span cables of over 1200 metres each. The lower station is in Tafelberg Road, Kloof Nek — the saddle of land linking Table Mountain with Lion's Head. At the upper station there is a tearoom, a post office where your mail will be franked Table Mountain' and a television and radio station. The first cableway was built in 1929 and more than a quarter million people use the facility each year. Weather permitting, the cableway is open daily, and on fine evenings in summer it runs until 10.30 p.m. — the signal being the flashing green light from the top station. There being such a magnificent obstacle literally within a city, it follows that many a climber, whether serious mountaineer or absolute novice, is prompted to accept the challenge of conquering Table Mountain. Some 400 routes of varying grades from easy walks to sheer rockface climbs are available, and the visitor is strongly advised to communicate with the Mountain Club of South Africa before attempting any climb. At the eastern end of Table Mountain, at the summit, 1 086 metres above sea level, is Maclear's Beacon (after the Astronomer Royal), one of South Africa's map survey points. In addition to baboons, dassies and other indigenous animals, Table Mountain supports a herd of Himalayan mountain goats — descended from escapees from Groote Schuur Zoo. Disa imiflora (the Pride of Table Mountain and a species of orchid), silvertrees (a species of protea) and a host of other indigenous plants thrive on the mountain. The pure drinking water that was relied upon entirely to replenish the ships that had been at sea for four months and more, came from the springs and streams of Table Mountain. This continued to be the only watersupply right up to the end of the nineteenth century. Although it does not appear so from a distance, the great sandstone mass of Table Mountain is split on the northern face from base to summit by the Platteklip Gorge. Well sign-posted on the Tafelberg Road, one-and-a-half kilometres from the lower cable station, the gorge is one of the easy ascents. Further along the Tafelberg Road, in the rock above a cemented pool, is the bronze plaque of the Monuments Commission proclaiming Table Mountain a natural monument. Lion's Head