All Toledo [antikvár]

HEBREWS, MOORS AND CHRISTIANSThe traveller reaches Toledo. He contemplates the city, fortified like a castle in her ochre and dusty mountain, gifted with a generous sun, circled and conquered by the river Tajo that passes by obstinately at the hem of her skirt. And the traveller, w^ithout a doubt, draws closer to Toledo. He can now make out the severe and geometrical massive structure of the Alcázar, the high and armoured profile of the Cathedral, the city's walls and her portals And the traveller wiU instinctively enter Toledo. One would say, on observing the city from afar, that Toledo is a town in a state of readiness for war, a mihtary village, closed off, impassible. But El Greco painted it in a mystical haze made of dust and sky; like a land incited by cadaverous dreams of glory. Few cities inspire in the traveller as he draws nearer to the city's gates such a tremendous sensation of hermitage. On contemplating the city for the first time, we experience that restless sense of loneHness and isolation that overtakes us as we become more fuUy acquainted with certain pages in Spain's history. Do not forget that Toledo -as Pérez Galdós wrote- is a complete history of Spain. But we shall not be impressed by the blazonry and walls that have covered the