Los Angeles [antikvár]

IT is often said that Los Angeles is a city without a real heart, that central area in every large city in which its government, entertainment quarter, shopping areas and so on are contained: the hub which is the focus point of the city's life. There is some truth to this view, for Los Angeles has grown so rapidly in the decades since World War II that it cannot compare with world cities of comparable size that have had centuries in which to develop. nother view is that Los Angeles is a city with several hearts, all beating powerfully in their respective locations and sending the lifeblood of the city coursing along the circulatory system of the freeways in a helter-skelter of vehicles with people who scurry about the city on business or pleasure. This, too, is true and one glance at a map of the city, which stretches like a gargantuan tadpole - its head reaching over the Santa Monica Mountains into the San Femando Valley to the north and its tail wiggling its way south to the port of Los Angeles and Long Beach-will instantly reveal the diffuse nature of the community. The historical eye of this monster's head is a small plaza with the unexpected atmosphere of an old Spardsh village. This is where the Pueblo de Nuestra Senora la Reina de Los Angeles (the town of Our Lady, the Queen of the Angels) was founded by the Spaniards. Neglected for many years, the Pueblo has now become part of an area of 42 acres preserved as a State Historical landmark In the center of the square rises an old bandstand of the kind found in Latin American villages, around which the inhabitants usually promenade during summer evenings. The same traditions are maintained in this quiet area of Los Angeles, almost the only place free of traffic. Bands play during the summer evenings and colorful Mexican fiestas are celebrated with mariachi groups filling the air with the sounds of guitars and providing a feast for the eye with their romantic Mexican sombreros and embroidered ponchos. One of the oldest buildings in the Plaza is the old Mission Church, now known as the Plaza Church. This is one of a string of churches and missions built along the coast by the Spaniards in an attempt to colonize California. The Plaza Church began as a chapel for the settlers in 1784 and was rebuilt in 1822 on the proceeds of the sale of several barrels of wine donated by the San Gabriel mission. Even that money was not enough to erect more than a very simple structure and over the years the weather has taken its toll on the adobe walls. There has been some restoration however, and in the interior much of the spirit which comforted and inspired the early settlers remains. The altar is of carved wood inset with painrings, and the painted ceiling and wooden pews are reminders of churches in old Spain. With the tall palms growing in its courtyard and its rebuilt belltower with three bells set in arches, the Church has retained for Los Angeles the character of its early days. The lonely splendor of the coastline at 5h «se/previous page is sharply contrasted with the busy Harbor Freeway left as it by-passes the City Center. Another attractive reminder of the city's Spanish origins is found at Olvera Street. Here is the oldest house in Los Angeles, the Avila Adobe, built in the original village in 1818, and the feeling of the street market that ran along the old main street is srill to be found here today Olvera Street is for pedestrians only; small shops with craftsmen at work line the street and musicians stroll amid the stalls on which hang embroidered shirts, scarves and leather belts, or step carefully around the piles of pottery displayed on the sidewalk In the evenings, the lanterns glow and music fills the air, as do the odors of tacos and enchiladas which visitors order at take-out stalls or enjoy at the Mexican restaurants. In the Pueblo there are also buildings from the city's early American period when rich ranchers put up at the Pico House, the grandest hotel of its day boasting three stories and eight rooms, some with, an article of bathroom furniture which was a novelty in the West in 1869-a bathtub with hot water. There is also the Merced Theater where gala nights were packed with everyone of note in old Los Angeles. In complete contrast to the Pueblo but close by it across the Hollywood Freeway, is the modem Civic Center. This complex of buildings is in a spacious area with parks and malls green with palms and evergreens. In it, the city authorities have tried to create that focal point which the city lacks. The buildings are conventionally designed, according to the pattem of other civic centers in the U.S., and a good deal of the city's cultural life revolves about them. One end is dominated by the City Hall which, until 1957, was the tallest building in the city, rising 32 stories and providing magnificent views on those rare smogless days. On the westem end of the complex is another striking building, the Water and Power Building. This block by Albert C. Martin was built in 1964 and is particularly striking at night when the interior lighting shining through its abundant glass converts it into a huge sparkling cube that dominates the city. Alongside the Water and Power Building is a black glass and marble building which is at the heart of the musical life of Los Angeles. This is the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion which was buik in 1964 and houses the Los Angeles Philharmonic Orchestra. Its auditorium seats 3250 people who attend performances of opera, ballet and music in its modem setting. The Pavilion is one of a trio of buildings for theatrical entertainments. The other two are the Mark Taper Fomm, a smaller theater where much experimental drama is performed, and the Ahmanson Theater which can accommodate 2000 people for plays and musical shows.