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ABOUT THIS BOOKLET
This article was originally written for The American Alpne Journal in which it appeared in June, 1962. A somewhat more technical version was published simultaneously in The New England Journal of Medicine, 266:974-989 (May 10, 1962). Both of these articles were profusely illustrated with superb photographs, kindly made available by Dr. William J. Mills, Jr. of Anchorage, Alaska.
Reprints of these original articles were distributed by this Museum until the supply was exhausted this fall as a result of requests received, mostly from doctors, all over the world. Initial response from both scientists and out-doorsmen can best be described in the following typical verbatim quotations received from doctors asking for reprints: "No article in any medical jotu-nal has ever impressed me as did yours" . . . "One of the most interestingly compiled and pleasantly presented bits of medical reporting I've had the pleasure of reading for a long time" "a classical piece of reporting" "I have not encountered any publication in the field that comes close to it for its excellence" "a marvelous and vitally important contribution to the literature on the subject."
This second reprint is published by the Museum of Science without any of the photographic illustrations, in the interest of economy. Those wishing to refer to the illustrations should have no difficulty in locating a copy of the original publications — particularly The New England Journal of Medicine, which can be found in virtually all of the world's significant libraries.
Although the original article was directed toward the mountaineer, it is believed that the facts and advice which it contains should be of basic value to doctors and laymen alike — whether or not they operate at high altitude — inasmuch as the currently accepted treatment of frostbite and the ways to avoid it are identical at all places and altitudes.
It is evident that the author practices what he preaches, for only one slight case of frostbite has occurred among all the personnel involved in his total of 15 major forays into the high mountains of Alaska. Three of these have been ascents of Mount McKinley, and four have been carried out under full winter conditions. Well over 100 different people have participated in this field work much of which has been directed toward the preparation of a new and detailed map of the Mount McKinley region, published by this Museum in April, 1961.
December, 1962