Gut essen/Good eating in Budapest [antikvár]

INTRODUCTION (something which the writer himself is not in the habit of reading but which, in this particular case, can be taken as an aperitif. . . An appetiser concocted of words, a la hongroise . . .) Even if we do not like to admit when choosing a travel destination, many of us are influenced, sometimes decisively by the relative ease with which gastronomic pleasures can be attained. For there are not only beautiful scenery, castles and ruins, cathedrals and tombs and galleries, a delight for the eyes alone. There also exist such joys as good eating and drinking. Just think of hors-d'oeuvres preludes, of the harmony of an appetising steak, of cheese mosaics, of picturesque fruit still-lives, the poem of a trembling jelly or ceremonial wine masses and the like. And these too, are all parts of true life, travelling and new experiences. And let us remember the past too. Taverns with red checked tablecloths, crisp, salted bread rolls, ribald jokes and guffaws. Whispering and sighing in vanilla-scented, "biedermeier" pastry shops. Literary coffee houses and artists' coffee houses and political coffee houses, coffee houses for every class and rank. Noisy pubs, coffee shops, shady inns and luxury hotels, uninhibited life in night spots. Light and shade. Dior and garlic. Caviar and cabbage. A romantic world full of contrasts setting off a train of nostalgia, sounds and impressions which remain life-like for decades. Experiences inspiring our forefathers to write novels, to fight duels and to marry, to rise to heaven or sink to hell. Far be itfrom me to claim that the fruit and masterpieces of Hungarian intellectual life were born of stews and beer, red wine and coffee. But no doubt, from 1830 for over a century, catering establishments here played a decisive role in Hungarian arts, literature, politics, society and social life, and still preserve the memory of the great habitués. Due to Hungary's old tradition in the catering trade, it is one of those few countries where hospitality is not merely a condition for tourism, but also a tourist attraction. Because Hungarian gastronomy means special ingredients, unique methods, culinary science based on centuries-old traditions, prestigious establishments with 3