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"r-pHE FULFILLMENT of a life's jj dream." That is how photographer and writer Fred Ward (right) described his visit to Lhasa in Tibet. Fred has traveled the world as a distinguished free lance; National Geographic members will remember his articles on Cuba, the Canadian North, and diamonds. With such a background of experience, did Tibet disappoint him? "I had feared I would finally get to Lhasa and find that it looked like someplace else," he told me on his return. "But it doesn't. It still has a strong sense of mystery, of remoteness, a strange appeal. It is still the Everest of the traveler." To prepare himself for the arduous journey through China to Tibet, a journey made by very few Western journalists, Fred jogged daily for seven months and lost 17 pounds-"the less weight, the better one works at high altitudes." And work he did, making photographs by day and interviewing by night, a régimén that finally so exhausted him that he missed the farewell banquet for his group. "I knew I had to use every minute," Fred said. "It is the one place I always wanted to visit, ever since I saw those famous pictures of the Potala in an old Geographic." Indeed, it was with a feeling of greeting an old and long-lost friend that I viewed his photographs, for Lhasa marks a true turning point in the history of the Geographic. The January 1905 issue carried the magazine's first photographic story. The Editor had received in the mail fifty black-andwhite photographs of Lhasa made by two Russian explorers named Tsybikoff and Norzunoff, and forwarded by the Imperial Russian Geographical Society of St. Petersburg. In a daring and fateful move, Gilbert H. Grosvenor fiiled a full 11 pages with pictures. He thought he would be fired, but he lasted in the job for fifty more years. From that day on, the Geographic was a magaziné that would use the photographic essay as well as the written word to teli the story of far-off peoples and places. And for people like Fred Ward, those pictures represented the genuinely remote and romántic, the faraway Shangri-la that inhabits the dreams of every adventurous person. NATONAL GEOGEAraOC THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINÉ VOL. 157, NO. 2 COPYRIGHT © 1980 BY NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY WASHINGTON, D. C. INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT SECURED February 1980 The Pesticide Dilemma 145 America's bounty from farm andforest rests on careful use ofa biliion pounds ayear ofinsect and weed killers. How great are the risks of poisoning ourselves and our environment? Allén A. Boraiko and photographer Fred Ward document a crucial and growing public debate. Tunisia: Sea, Sand, Success 184 A North African Arab republic without much oil relies on education and humán energy in the uphill battlefaced by all developing nations. By Mike Edwards and Dávid Alan Harvey, with a double supplement map ofAfrica. JAMES ABOUREZK In Long-Forbidden Tibet 218 Few outsiders-and only a handful of Western journalists-have visited that remote, littleknown land locked behind the high Himalayas. Fred Ward describes and photographs a people and a way oflife slowly emergingfrom the past. The White Mountain Apache: Three Perspectives 260 An Indián struggle to retain traditional ways in today's world is recounted by tribal leader Ronnie Lupe; by a young woman coming ofage, Nita Quintero; and by a white reporter-photographer who married into the tribe, Bili Hess. cover: Armed with a sling, a Tibetan shepherdess tendsyaks on PengBo State Farm. Photograph by Fred Ward. 1 A2