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GEOCBAPHIC SOCIETY, »ASHINGtON, 0. C. INTERNATIONAL COPTHISBT SECUBEO
North Through History Aboard White Mist
By MELVILLE BELL GROSVENOR, LL.D., Sc.D.
Editor-in-Chief and Chairman of the Board, National Geographie Society
Photographs by EDWIN STUART GROSVENOR
T
¦>W0 STORM ANCHORS firmly set, White Mist lay to the north wind whistling across Tadoussac harbor. Seeing the ship safe for the night, I lashed the riding light to the forestay and dropped below.
Now should have come that golden hour when shipmates gather in the cabin to relive the adventures of the day. But not a word was heard; not a hand reached for coffee steaming on the stove.
Coming after a month of easy inland sailing, the last eight hours of rough going had depressed morale. We were spray-soaked, chilled, and, I must confess, a bit scared.
In the 40-nautical-mile run down the St. Lawrence from Malbaie in thick fog, a pulp boat had nearly cut us down. Tossed in
violent currents and blinded, we had a near-collision with a giant light tower perched atop Prince Shoal (page 35).
As climax, a northerly gale funneled suddenly out of the Saguenay River and dealt the 46-foot yawl the worst knockdown I had seen her take. SoUd river water poured into her cockpit; some of us nearly went over the side.
"Here we are with an able ship and a good crew, yet we nearly lose her in a darned river," I fussed. "Another day like this, and I'll be tempted to turn around."
Anne Grosvenor put the cruise back on even keel, and this was most surprising, for my wife likes her sailing placid.
"You're forgetting we planned this as a (Continued on page 7)
Driving hard on the wind. White Mist (foldout, next page) romps south from New-foundland after threading history-rich waterways of the United States and Canada. The author—in light-blue oilskin jacket at the helm—chose for guides such lively ghosts as explorers Henry Hudson, Samuel de Champlain, and Jacques Cartier.
) NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETT
lOK, NEW YORK PUBLIC LIBRARY; KODACHROME BY EDWIN STUART 6ROSVENOH (]
voyage back into history," she said, plunking the coffee mugs down. "We came here to follow the great explorers. We must accept some of their discomforts, even their perils.
"And what did they tell us about the mouth of the Saguenay?" she continued, reaching for books in While Mist's carefully assembled library. "Here's Jacques Cartier, discoverer of Canada. His journal mentions the 'swift and dangerous' tide, and a 'bottom strewn with large boulders like casks and puncheons.'
"Now Samuel de Champlain: 'Here sometimes violent winds rise and bring on great cold.' And if you want something more modern, listen to what happened to the Prince of Wales, later King Edward VII, coming here on a royal visit in 1860. In a fog, currents pushed his Royal Navy frigate Hero on that same shoal we 'explored' today.
"So I say the day was a huge success. Cheer up! And give me galley room to make dinner."
Inland Cruise for an Ocean Racer
I turn the pages of White Mist's logbook back to the first days of last summer's cruise.
We were sailing from Chesapeake Bay to New York, initial leg of an unusual voyage for our ocean-going yawl. Using rivers, lakes, and canals to go north, she would take us via Montreal and Newfoundland to Baddeck, Nova Scotia (map, pages 3-5).
Now, early on a June day, she coasted New Jersey's Highlands of Navesink.
"Here's the perfect point of departure for a voyage like ours," I remarked to helmsman Jim Watson, my grandson. "Early navigators used these highlands, the only tall cliffs along this coast, as a landmark. You can be sure we're crossing the wake of history's great seafarers this very moment."
"Who do you suppose was first?" asked Jim. "A Viking? A Portuguese or Breton?"
In orderly swarms, British soldiers scale the New Jersey Palisades prior to a dawn attack on American-held Fort Lee in November 1776. So surprised were the Continentals manning the fort that they fled with camp kettles still steaming.
The 46-foot yawl White Mist (lower) heads upstream from the George Washington Bridge, route of thousands of commuters who twice a day sweep past the site of the Revolutionary War debacle. Thanks to such benefactors as John D. Rockefeller, Jr., a 12-mile stretch of the Palisades remains un-marred by development.
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