Big Flavors of the Hot Sun [antikvár]

LOST IN THESPICE ZONE AGAINSubtlety in food does not impress me. I like big,loud flavorssweet, sour, hot, salty, aromatic, pungent, tinglingpreferably all in the same bite. I'm the guy who always asks for salt and pepper in the fancy restaurants and who thinks that most dishes could benefit from a squeeze of lime or a shot or two of Tabasco.Now, don't get me wrong. I don't mean to put down intricate or subtle food; I understand that my attraction to strong, intense, well-defined flavors is a personal choice. It's like preferring jazz to chamber music; shorts and flip-flops to tails and a black tie; or steamed crabs, glasses of beer, and bottles of hot sauce on a table covered with old newspapers to a damask tablecloth set with more silverware than I know what to do with and a plate of food that looks like a painting.Over the years I have found that my type of foodcasual, a little rough around the edges, and packed with big, bold tastesis most easily found in places where the weather is hot. From Thailand to Brazil, from Singapore to Morocco to Mexico, I have continually discovered food with the vibrant flavors and direct, sensual appeal that excite and satisfy me.It took me a while, though, to figure out that this hot-weather food could take its place alongside the classic creations of Escoffier and Careme that I was taught in culinary school.I entered the world of professional cooking in the early 1970s, when the nouvelle cuisine wave was just washing over America. It was an incredibly exciting time to be a cook. Every day when I went to work, I was faced with ingredients I had never seen before and was given free rein to experiment with them, trying out my ideas on supportive co-workers and customers. Through sheer luck and good timing, I was participating in one of the most significant changes in the world of food since Columbus's voyages inaugurated the global food exchange of the 16th century. I quickly became addicted.But in cooking as in the rest of life, it's hard to maintain an even course. Even the