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.iiivii',;.;:INTRODUCTIONTo the first-time traveler, Italy's treasures may seem to lie in her splendid cities, in her churches filled with mosaics and frescoes, and in her museums and galleries. But for many people who have come to know the peninsula better, Italy's most abundant riches lie in her varied countryside. Consider Tuscany and Umbria's gentle landscapes, where feathery cypresses, shimmering olive trees, and vineyards cover rolling, sepia-toned hills; or the mountains, the jagged and silvery ^^^^^ southern Alps and the rosy Dolomite massifs, dotted with HHH villages steeped in folklore and tradition. Then there is the Italian lake region, a seductive geographical blend of northern and southern Europe, where pine trees and Alpine vistas form a backdrop for palm-tree-lined quays, stately villas, and semitropical gardens. And there are such famous Mediterranean regions as the Riviera, the Amalfi coast, and the island of Sardinia, with their jewel-toned waters, pastel-tinted villages, and harrowing sea roads with glorious views. The Italian writer Giovanni Papini noted that his homeland had "woody vales like Scandinavia, heaths as in Scotland, orange-scented woods such as in Andalusia, serene hills covered with olive groves and vineyards like Greece . . . flowering woods like Japan " among countless other delights.This bounty of natural beauty makes Italy a potent lure for people from around the world, many of them frequent visitors. Italians, too, are enthusiastic travelers within their own country, and even Italian jet setters, who have safaried in Africa, sunbathed in the Seychelles, and trekked through Patagonia, feel that the most enchanting earthly treasures lie right in their own backyard. For an Italian, "Andiamo in campagna," or "Let's go to the country," is one of the most delectable phrases that can be uttered. La campagna is an umbrella term, often used by Italians to describe anything outside a city's limitsislands and mainland beaches, as well as fields and woodlands.The Italian countryside can easily be enjoyed whether one has a little or a lot of time or money. One can delight in an afternoon drive through Chianti country in Tuscany, or visit a medieval hill town in Umbria, relax for a weekend in a grand, old-world-style hotel over-